Paraty, Brazil (finally running south)

It was time to say goodbye to Rio as I start my official run south. 

I have decided to run the coast of Brazil all the way down to Uruguay. My first planned stop was the town of Paraty only 260km south of Rio.

The town has some of the most character I have seen in my travels. Along with the largest cobbled stone roads as well. Basically they used boulders to make the originally roads throughout the town. 

I bet thousands of visitors each year twist their ankles.

An interesting sight was to see a majority of the streets near the harbour flood everyday during high tide? I guess you can't enter or leave your house during that time.

Colourfully painted boats waiting to take tourists out for tours.

Below is the popular liquor of Brazil called Cachaca. It is made from fermented sugarcane juice and makes the oh so famous Caipirinhas. 

This picture was taken just a day later on a ferry crossing to the city of Santos. I have left the warmth of Northern Brazil and find myself in rain and 7 degree temperatures. Nothing like freezing my ass off again Arghhhhhhh.

A little bit of home

It is funny how things can work. If you asked me a year ago if I would run into anyone from back home during my travels, I would tell you that you are crazy. But as chance would have it my friend Adam  happened to be working in Niteroi (across the bay from Rio) at exactly the same time I was in Rio.

He was also kind enough to let me stay at his rented condo for a week so we could hang out.

Downtown Niterio has a 2.5 km beach in front with boardwalk

Contemporary Arts museum 

(All I will say is go on Wednesdays when it is free)

View looking across the bay to Rio

Local beach in Niteroi

a few of the local residents

Watching the sunset and an oil rig being pulled out to sea. Over a few cold beers of course!

It was bound to happen

When you travel there are always a few key points that make each country memorable in its own way.

 The beauty of the landscape

The architecture 

The people   

 The culture

The food

And with each you have to take the good with the bad. I have seen some absolutely stunning landscape as well as some rather boring landscape. 

View from Vista Chinesa 

I have been able to see the everyday way of life of the people from these countries.

Bikini salesman on the beach
a guys dream job

I have tried food that I have fell in love with and some that I could not spit out fast enough.

The very healthy Acai berry from Northern Brazil 

And I have seen engineering marvels from the past and present. 

The Arcos found in the historic district of Lapa (Rio) 

The Grand Cathedral in the district of Lapa

Now all I have mentioned above has been on the good side. And if you have followed my blog in the past you know the help and kindness others have shown me along the way. 

Unfortunately sometimes you have to experience the bad side of people as well. This became apparent when myself and a friend from back home were walking through the historic district of Rio (Lapa). We were approached from behind and then quickly encircled by five teenagers who were planning on robbing us. 

Adam and I both quickly assessed the situation and new that they were going to try and grab my backpack and pick pocket us by trying to create confusion. There technique was to try and distract us through intimidation. This quickly ended after a few minutes when they realized that by even getting in our face, we were not going to be intimidated.  

If you look closely in the bottom left hand picture you will see two of the punks approaching. Adam had just taken this picture (which I still cannot figure out what he was taking a picture of) and put his camera away when they caught up.

Bottom line all ended well and is my really first negative experience in 18 countries. I have been in all kinds of neighbourhoods, towns and cities and still believe in the kindness of strangers. That being said you still need to be aware of your surroundings and use common sense. 

Also a little bit of luck can't hurt either.

Cheers from the road!

Sometimes you just go "wow I made it".

When doing a trip like this there seem to be defining moments when you realize what you have accomplished. I was struck by this feeling again while standing on top of Sugar Loaf Mountain over looking Rio De Janeiro.

Sugar Loaf in the distance

I have seen many pictures of this famous landmark and realized "Hey you drove all the way here on a motorcycle" how cool is that!

Helipad

It was apparent that Rio like any large city struggles with pollution from smog. There was no wind the day I visited and the smog just hung in the air like a blanket of poison over the city.

Copacabana beach in the distance

The famous Christ the Redeemer statue over looking the city of Rio.

Sugar Loaf is also considered a wildlife park consisting of many different animals.

I still get a kick out of how these guys can blend into their environment.

Never got the name but these guys are as cute as hell 

Rio Bound

I will admit I was excited thinking about sitting my ass down on some of the best beaches in the world. But truth be-known I was really not looking forward to the 2500 km ride from Santa Cruz to Rio. I new the ride was going to be cold, wet, windy and with uneventful terrain.

Now I was correct in all of the above mentioned with the exception of the unexpected company for the ride. About 20km from the border town of Puerto Suarez an enthusiastic rider passed me by giving a hearty wave. 

I decided I would follow this stranger into town even though I did not  know where he was from or what language he spoke. But I new we both had something in common, we were both dumb enough to be driving in the freezing cold weather.

Well it turned out that Paulo and his daughter Pamela were heading back to Sao Paulo after visiting Peru. So after talking for just 10 mins in a combination of Portuguese, broken Spanish and English. We decided that we would ride together the next day until our paths seperated. 

And as events have it, what was supposed to be only one day together turned into three plus and overnight stay at Paulo's house in the city of Sao Paulo.

I can't stress enough why this is one of the best things about travelling solo. People are so friendly and just want to get to know you, and when you are by yourself you are just that much more approachable. 

Pamela told me the name of this bird in Portuguese which I cannot remember, but I think they are just the coolest looking birds.  To me it looks like a combination of part chicken part hawk.

More wild life in the Pantanel swamps of Brazil.

I finally made it to rio after 5 days and was not disappointed in my choice of accommodations. 

I decided to stay on an island 30 minutes outside of Rio in the neighbourhood called Barra de Tijuca. Most of this reasoning was due to the fact that the Pope was in town and downtown Rio was packed with his followers.There are no vehicles on the island and you must take a water taxi (1 min) to get to the island. There are approximately 2000 people living on the island. 

The island is a maze of sidewalks leading to the various homes. Along with a few restaurants and  stores located throughout the island. 

The island island is also only a 20 min walk to some of the best beaches of Rio. And after 5 days of wet freezing weather I am in great need of some sun and sand!

Boiled Cockroaches anyone?

At first glance if you are like me you would think these are cockroaches. But upon closer inspection you will discover they are pine nuts.

Adriano at the motorcycle hostel in Foz do Iguacu decided to treat me too a common snack of Brazil.

There are two ways it seems to prepare these. One is by boiling in a pressure cooker for about 30 minutes and the other is roasting them on a fire. 

I had to look them up on the internet as I was unsure what kind of nut they were. It seems that Brazil has giant pine cones that are 1 to 2 feet long! And from these you get the pine nut. 

Go figure!

I think I finally figured out that my GPS has a special route setting just for me. And it proved itself once again on my ride from Foz do Iguacu to Bonito.

Brazil has all kinds of beautiful highways and yet my GPS seems to find the most challenging roads possible.

So once again I find myself for 60 kms slipping, sliding and crossing questionable bridges.

But as usual these backroads produce some of the best scenery and wildlife. In 60 kms I saw a family of Monkeys, Toucans, the Brazilian Rhea (looks similar to an Emu) and hundreds of giant termite hills.

So even though these roads can be stressful at times. They always have a way of equalizing out the good with the bad.